I use to surf a lot when I was younger and one time one of my buddies had a bad wipeout and took in some water and he was choking and coughing but eventually recovered. We planned to go out that night and when we went to pick him up there was a bunch of ambulances and emts at his house. Later we found out that he died of secondary drowning. We were only 18ish at the time and even though we surfed everyday we never even heard of this. From that point on anyone who sucked in some water we went to the hospital. Over 20ish years two more would have drowned if we didn't take the precautions we did. It's a shame he had to die but his death saved at least two others in my group. Sadly had to give it up when I developed back problems.
I used to live in HB back in the 80's. I knew of Kelly from the Chuck Dent surf center. The back room of the shop was were he and others would sometimes box for fun. Impromptu boxing matches, not serious, gloves supplied. Nice kid.
For anyone that has surfed, or wants to surf, remember who is in control out there, here's a clue, it's not you. I have a kid brother who decided not to heed my safety warnings back in 84, he has since spent the last 39 years as a hemiplegic. He caught a 3 foot wave, rode it, and finished by jumping from his board, hands at his sides, head first into the water. He didn't know there was a sandbar just below the surface. This happened in HB, notorious for shifting bars. Could have happened to anyone, anywhere. It doesn't take a big wave to change or end your life. Surfing is rife with close calls, some avoidable. I have met many people over the years, who have had similar unhappy results from ignorance or carelessness or bad luck. Please, always be careful and respectful of Mother Ocean. Me, I still surf, although only when it's good. It took me a week after my brother's accident to get back in the water way back then. I'm glad I did. I have taken many chances, some I shouldn't have, so far so good, but I never forget what can happen if I make the wrong mistake.
I can't remember the stats, but I believe most serious surf related injuries occur at the wedge. Hoag hospital Newport beach has treated 100's of broken necks there. Always the same story…The injured didn't know the risk.
Laird Hamilton
I use to surf a lot when I was younger and one time one of my buddies had a bad wipeout and took in some water and he was choking and coughing but eventually recovered. We planned to go out that night and when we went to pick him up there was a bunch of ambulances and emts at his house. Later we found out that he died of secondary drowning. We were only 18ish at the time and even though we surfed everyday we never even heard of this. From that point on anyone who sucked in some water we went to the hospital. Over 20ish years two more would have drowned if we didn't take the precautions we did. It's a shame he had to die but his death saved at least two others in my group. Sadly had to give it up when I developed back problems.
0:06 did he just said this is gay medina hahahahah
I used to live in HB back in the 80's. I knew of Kelly from the Chuck Dent surf center. The back room of the shop was were he and others would sometimes box for fun. Impromptu boxing matches, not serious, gloves supplied. Nice kid.
For anyone that has surfed, or wants to surf, remember who is in control out there, here's a clue, it's not you. I have a kid brother who decided not to heed my safety warnings back in 84, he has since spent the last 39 years as a hemiplegic. He caught a 3 foot wave, rode it, and finished by jumping from his board, hands at his sides, head first into the water. He didn't know there was a sandbar just below the surface. This happened in HB, notorious for shifting bars. Could have happened to anyone, anywhere. It doesn't take a big wave to change or end your life. Surfing is rife with close calls, some avoidable. I have met many people over the years, who have had similar unhappy results from ignorance or carelessness or bad luck. Please, always be careful and respectful of Mother Ocean. Me, I still surf, although only when it's good. It took me a week after my brother's accident to get back in the water way back then. I'm glad I did. I have taken many chances, some I shouldn't have, so far so good, but I never forget what can happen if I make the wrong mistake.
I can't remember the stats, but I believe most serious surf related injuries occur at the wedge. Hoag hospital Newport beach has treated 100's of broken necks there. Always the same story…The injured didn't know the risk.
Kelly seems like such a cool guy. super badass