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  1. Surfing the north shores of maui kauai and oahu for 15 years as well as mexico n cali for even longer span you feal with the same kind of fear driven abxiety. Paddling out over razor sharp reefs into walls of saltwater filled with man o wars sharks n whatever creatures that can f u up being held underwater holding your breathe getting sucked over the falls etc etc … You train n train all summer just to have that edge to beat out the 40-60 other pro level athlete surfers. All charging for the same peak (wave) except in surfing if you lose you drown. You die. Not get a head ache or broken nose

  2. PRAY THAT THESE PEOPLE AND JIDION AND RYAN TRAHAN AND 2HYPE AND CASHNASTY AND JOE ROGAN AND DANA WHITE AND MIKE TYSON AND NICK DIAZ AND NATHAN DIAZ AND THESE FIGHTERS AND THEIR FRIENDS AND FAMILY AND THESE PEOPLE IN THESE VIDEO AND THIS THING AND THESE VIDEOS AND THESE THINGS ARE FORGIVEN AND ARE CHRISTIANS.✝🙏❤

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