48 Comments

  1. Its addictive to the point where you make crazy decisions. I got myself into a bad situation in New Zealand. I chased a winter storm and ended up in an isolated bay surfing on my own a really good point break and after 4 hrs I realised the tide had switched and before I knew it I was about 2km out to sea. The swell kept building and 3 hrs later I made landfall on a water thin 6.0 on the next bay over. Actually kissed the ground and had to hike an hr back to my car. Local farmer stopped me on his farm and said " good rollers son?" Fuck me if he only knew. Back at work onsite the next morning

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