Taken from JRE MMA Show #85 w/Max Holloway: https://youtu.be/4N2FjjLAS6E
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Taken from JRE MMA Show #85 w/Max Holloway: https://youtu.be/4N2FjjLAS6E
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Thats a real surfer 😆 🤣 😂
I bodyboard big waves and shorebreak. Still always freakn scary, but i am addicted. Sometimes I think I might break my back or something.
Yeah you can't just tap out when your done…..mother nature decides when your done
Learning how to let go of control is a huge obstacle…..the beating of even a wave dbl overhead is brutal, 50-100ft don't even know how they do it
The dudes who surf the big and scary shit, there are alot of demons and hurdles to overcome to get to that level……and huge props, they have taken near death experiences to make it look so easy on video
Surfed my whole life, took trips to indo, Hawaii, Fiji and never scratched the surface of what the big boys do and had to climb many mental and physical hurdles for just that…..
The shape you have to be in is tip top, motocross riders are thee fittest athletes in world surfing has to be not too far behind…..my body was ripped when I was surfing solid waves everyday….
We have surf lakes in Australia and the waves are generated by a giant bell that raises and drops in the middle of a lake creating multiple breaks to surf