21 Comments

  1. I have nearly drowned multiple times, one time a few months ago, it wasn't even that big compared to what i've been out in, I just hadn't surfed 'big' waves in a long time and was unfit. One wipeout set came in but one of them just ripped me off the board and threw me under and kept rolling me for what felt like ages, in my head I was panicking but I knew if I didn't calm down and relax i'd never see my family again, thinking of my family got me through that wipeout, then I called it a day and went in. Thanked god then went home.

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