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  1. Broke my femur on the reef at a 12. Foot day at Spreks on N shore Maui. A tough day where 2 waves came together and slammed me into the outer reef. The swim through the inner break was absolute torture. Big kudos to those Maui lifeguards who got me off the beach and to the hospital for emergency surgery. I’m back in the water again after a year of PT, whew!

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