Joe Rogan, just go surfing. You won't look back. Seriously, it's never too late to get in. But once you're on, never ever think about giving up, keep going and before you know it your life will be changed forever.
A twenty foot face is a ten foot wave for Hawaiians because they measure from the back, I like how he describes a two story house size wave as ‘double overhead’. He Man points for Hawk going out tow in with Hamilton and Randle, people with healthy sensibilities and a normal desire for survival usually stay on the beach on days where guys like that think it might be just barely worth it to go out.
Joe Rogan, just go surfing. You won't look back. Seriously, it's never too late to get in. But once you're on, never ever think about giving up, keep going and before you know it your life will be changed forever.
Why do these guys lie so much?
Sick
A twenty foot face is a ten foot wave for Hawaiians because they measure from the back, I like how he describes a two story house size wave as ‘double overhead’. He Man points for Hawk going out tow in with Hamilton and Randle, people with healthy sensibilities and a normal desire for survival usually stay on the beach on days where guys like that think it might be just barely worth it to go out.
Laird Hamilton
Mike Tyson